PARIS. Kunyangwe paine kutya kuti zvinhu zvichange zvisina kumira zvakanaka, mamiriro ezvinhu pachirongwa cheSilmo chenguva pfupi yapfuura aive netariro.
Mutungamiri weSilmo, Amelie Morel, akati huwandu hwevaratidziri nevakapinda - vashanyi zviuru makumi maviri nenomwe - hwakaenzana nehuwandu hwevaivepo vasati vasvika denda. Ne50% yevashanyi vaibva kunze kweFrance, huwandu hwakawanda hwevashanyi vanobva kuAmerica neMiddle East, avo vaive vasiri pakuratidzira denda risati ratanga, vadzoka vakawanda.
"Zvakashamisa chaizvo," akadaro Morel. "Izvi zvinoratidza kuti indasitiri yedu ichiri kuda kuratidzwa uye inguva yakakosha kuindasitiri yese."
"Tinofara zvikuru kudzoka kuSilmo nevanhu vakawanda," akadaro Antonio Jove, mukuru weMarcolin EMEA. "Chinyorwa chegore rapfuura chaive chichiri kukanganiswa nemiganhu yeCOVID-19 uye zvinofadza kuona vanhu ikozvino ... vava kudzokera ku 'tsika' dzavo ... Misangano yemhenyu yakakosha zvikuru muindasitiri yedu."
Indasitiri yemaziso yakaita zvakanaka muhafu yekutanga yegore, varatidziri vachideredza kutya kwekuderera kwehupfumi. Christelle Barranger, Mutungamiri weEssilorLuxottica EMEA Wholesale, akati: “Ndinofunga kuti nyaya iyi ndiyo ichave pakati pehurukuro, asi pamwe Silmo haisiriyo nzvimbo yekukurukurirana nekuti yaifadza panguva iyoyo.” kwavari Sarudzo dzakaitwa nekungwarira, [asi] paivawo nepfungwa yekuvimba kuti taizopfuura.”
Moritz Krüger, mumwe wevakatanga uye CEO wekambani inogadzira zvinhu zvemhando yepamusoro yeMykita kuGermany, akati: “Vatengesi vedu vakanakidzwa zvikuru muzhizha uye takanzwa kuti vatengi pasi rese vanogutsikana zvikuru nekutengesa kwacho. Mamiriro acho anogutsa zvikuru, saka tinogona kutengesa zvakare.”
"Europe gore rino yaive yakafanana neNorth America gore rapfuura, saka pakava nekudzoserwa kwakakosha," akadaro Angelo Trocchia, mukuru weboka reSafilo, uyo akadzoka mushure mekubuda muchirongwa gore rapfuura. "MuEurope, tiri kuita zvakanaka, asi muNorth America zvese zvakajairika, nekuti gore rapfuura vakakwira zvikuru. Nyika yese iri kufamba zvakanaka."
Akaenderera mberi achiti: “Kana ndikatarira mberi, ndichanyatsochenjerera … Kukwira kwemitengo kuri kutanga kuitika, uye ndinofunga pakupera kwegore tichaona kuti vatengi vanotanga sei kuzviona.”
Vanoongorora vanoti makambani ekugadzira maziso ane mukurumbira mumakambani epamusoro-soro neanotanga. "Zviri pachena kuti hupfumi huri kukura, uye sezvo mari yekurapa ichiderera, zvipo zvemakambani ekutanga zviri kukurawo nekukurumidza kwenguva yakati," akadaro Barranger.
Zvichakadaro, kusawirirana kwekutengesa zvinhu kuchiripo uye kunotarisirwa kukanganisa mitengo munguva inotevera. "Kukwira kwemitengo kuri kukwira mune dzimwe nzvimbo dzepasi, saka tiri kuongorora kuti izvi zvichakanganisa sei uye kuti tingazvideredza sei," akadaro Barranger. "Tiri kuita zvese zvatinogona kuti tigamuchire kukwira kwemitengo, uye tiri kungwarira zvikuru kuti tingakanganisa sei mitengo."
"Ndinoziva kuti vazhinji vevanokwikwidza vakakwidza mitengo yavo," akadaro Krueger. "Hatisi kuzokwidza mitengo, kunyangwe gore rino. Tichafanira kuona zvese zvichaitika ikoko."
Kuunzwa kwetekinoroji yekubva pasi kuenda kumusoro uye kubva pasi ndiyo yaive dingindira guru rekuratidzira kwemazuva mana, kwakaguma musi wa26 Gunyana, uye kwakava dingindira renzvimbo itsva yedhijitari yemusha. "Tinoda kuva nzira yekubatsira indasitiri yemaziso kuita shanduko yayo yedhijitari," anodaro Sebastian Brusse, CEO uye director wekugadzira paJaw Studio Lyon, ari kubatsira kugadzira dunhu idzva.
EssilorLuxottica - kambani huru chete yemaziso yakashandisa magirazi akangwara payakabatana neMeta paRay-Ban Stories - yakaburitsa hunyanzvi hwayo hutsva, mhando yemaziso yakagadzirirwa mitambo iri pasi perezenisi kubva kuOakley. Mafuremu acho akagadzirirwa kupfekwa nemahedhifoni uye ane maoko anochinjika, nepo malenzi achishandiswa kuvandudza kusiyana kwechidzitiro, kusanganisira paOLED displays, uye kusefa chiedza chebhuruu.
"Kana uchifunga nezvemagirazi akangwara, vanhu vanoti ndiwo mukana wekuona ramangwana, asi atotanga kushandiswa mumagirazi akaita semitambo yemavhidhiyo," akadaro Barranger. "Izvozvo zvinoita kuti ndide magirazi akangwara: mangwana achave akabatana nenyika yedhijitari."
Kambani yekuSweden inonzi Skugga iri kuratidza zvainotaura kuti iri kuchinja tekinoroji yemagirazi akangwara sezvo mamodule ayo achigona kubatanidzwa mune chero rudzi rwemafuremu. Alf Ericsson, Chief Product Officer, akatsanangura kuti chinangwa chedu "hachisi chekugadzira tekinoroji inokodzera mumudziyo usingashandiswe nevanhu." "Mumakore maviri apfuura, takaona shanduko huru mukubvuma [vagadziri vemagirazi emaziso vakaona izvozvo] zvikasadaro makambani makuru etekinoroji aizotonga indasitiri yemaziso sezvavaitonga indasitiri yemawachi."
Mushure memakore manomwe ekugadzirwa, tekinoroji iyi yakagadzirira kugadzirwa inokwanisa kuyera mafambiro uye zvinhu zvakatipoteredza, pamwe nerubatsiro rwakasiyana-siyana, kubva pakufungidzira kusvibiswa kwemushandisi nechiedza kusvika pakupa ruzivo rwemamiriro ake ezvinhu nemitambo, pamwe nehurongwa hwakasununguka hwevagadziri vemaapp. Kambani iyi yakagamuchira mubairo weSilmo d'Or muchikamu cheTechnology Innovation/Connected Products.
Vanoongorora vanoti indasitiri yemaziso yave kunonoka kupinda muindasitiri ye tekinoroji, zvikuru nekuti chikamu chikuru cheindasitiri ichi chichiri kutungamirwa nenyanzvi dzemaziso dzakazvimiririra. "Optics kazhinji mabhizinesi emhuri uye anogona kuramba tekinoroji," akadaro Cody Cho, mutevedzeri wemutungamiri wekushambadzira kwepasi rose kuDita. "Panyaya yetekinoroji, magirazi ari kumashure kwemakore matatu kusvika mana."
Anobva kuSilicon Valley, Cho anga achiita kuti data rive chikamu chenyika yaDita kwemakore. "Tinoshandisa tekinoroji yakawanda kuti tifanotaura zvichaitika," akadaro.
Semuenzaniso, mamwe magirazi emusoro akaonekwa pachirongwa chevashanyi chega chega kuratidza kugona kwavo sezvishandiso zvekurerutsa kuodha nekuvandudza manejimendi yezvinhu zviri muchitoro, izvo zvaive musoro wehurukuro naMicrosoft Director weKushambadzira Zvigadzirwa Otman Chiheb.
Makore mashoma gare gare, magadzirirwo emhando yepamusoro asina mabhezi akaita seDita's Embra — modhi yekutanga isina mabhezi yaiitirwa vakadzi chete mumakore makumi maviri — ari kushamisa, sekureva kwemugadziri Louis Lee, asi makore mashoma mushure mekutonga kwemamodeli ane tambo muna 2010, mhando iyi yakachinjawo kuita maacetate.
Chikwata ichi chiri kushandisa mukana wekutenga zvinhu zvaro zvemhando yepamusoro uye chiri kuwedzera zvitoro zvaro zvisina kutengeswa mumigwagwa yezvitoro yepamusoro, akadaro Cho, nekuvhurwa kwazvino paRodeo Drive muBeverly Hills neBrompton Road muLondon. Cho akati kambani iyi ine chinangwa chekuvhura zvimwe zvitoro zvinomwe kana zvisere mumakore mashoma anotevera, ichinanga kumaguta akaita seMiami, Las Vegas, Mykonos, Shanghai, Dubai neSingapore.
Kufungidzira patsva mabrandi echinyakare chiratidzo chemabrandi mazhinji eMarcolin akadai sePucci naZegna akagadzirwa nemalogo avo matsva.
Kazhinji, vagadziri vemaziso vakaona kudiwa kukuru kwemafuremu akakora, akaita sesikweya, zvinhu zvinoyevedza, uye kuchinja kubva pakuva dema kuenda kubrown, izvo zvakanyangarika mumakore achangopfuura.
Kuchinja kwenzvimbo dzevamwe nyanzvi kuri pachena. Shafiro, iyo yakatambura mumakore achangopfuura nekurasikirwa nemarezinesi akawanda anobatsira anosanganisira Dior, Gucci naFendi, iri kugadzirisa zvigadzirwa zvayo. Boka iri riri kutsvaga kuwedzera kuvapo kwaro munzvimbo yezvipfeko zvevakadzi, semuenzaniso, Carolina Herrera, yarakasaina nayo gore rapera, pamwe nemamwe mabrandi ehupenyu akadai saBoss naIsabel Marant, pamwe chete nemakambani aro ePolaroid naCarrera. . "Tiri kunyatsofukidza zvakawanda izvozvi," Trocchia akadaro, "Pari zvino tiri kuita zvakanaka, marezinesi matsva ari kufamba zvakanaka, marezinesi ekare ari kufamba zvakanaka, mabrandi edu ari kufamba zvakanaka…."
Mamwe makambani makuru afambira mberi mukuchengetedza zvinhu. Safilo yakaratidza mafuremu nemalenzi akagadzirwa nezvinhu zvakadzokororwa zveEastman Renew, nepo Mykita yakachinja kushandisa mafuremu ayo ese eacetate uye ichiti ndiyo yekutanga kuita izvozvo muchikamu chayo chose. Vanoita inenge hafu yeportfolio yavo, havana kukwidza mitengo.
Mwanasikana waJamie Foxx anoti "haana kubuda muchipatara kwemavhiki" uye "akatamba pickleball nezuro."
Vatengi vane hunyanzvi vari kusiya mafuta avo ekuzora kumeso emadhora makumi mapfumbamwe vachisarudza mafuta aya emadhora matanhatu ekudzivirira makunyanzi kubva kukambani inotenderwa naJane Fonda.
WWD neWomen's Wear Daily chikamu chePenske Media Corporation. © 2023 Fairchild Publishing LLC. Kodzero dzose dzakachengetedzwa.
Nguva yekutumira: Chivabvu-18-2023